Samoa Christmas 2010-Sauniatu Again

Our last two days in Samoa we returned to quiet Sauniatu, Saturday evening to Monday morning. It was nice to be in a community where others observed the Sabbath as well. We just had to walk next door for church on Sunday morning, and a sweet lady from church brought us a plate of fa'alifu fa'i and taro (green banana and taro baked with coconut cream)--a very welcome dish since we'd had a hard time finding a place to buy food for the weekend. Everything closes for the holidays! In Apia we wanted to eat at our favorite restaurant Paddles, but it was closed whenever we went by! I guess they like their holidays. Who can blame them. But anyway...

McKay fale dedicated to President David O. McKay who gave an apostolic blessing on the village in the 1920's. It really is a tranquil and special place.

There are carvings of Samoan legends on every post of the fale. I wish I'd had someone there to explain them all to me. Fascinating. Isaac wanted his picture taken by each one.

Monday morning

We cleaned the house then drove back into town. We found Papase'ea or Sliding Rock just outside of Apia. It's a series of waterfalls and pools of varying depths and sizes. With more time and less kids, we could have real fun there. As it was, it was still fun. We watched some real daredevils sliding down the falls on their feet and jumping from the edges.

A general impression of Samoa: Less fat. Your average guy is totally fit and cut. Even old guys have a six pack. I don't know why, but maybe it has to do with the fact that in Samoa people are constantly walking around, hauling things, and working. Plus they're too poor to eat anything but what they grow, collect, and prepare themselves. There's a strong matai system in place where certain people get served food first, and everyone else eats what's left. They only have one McDonalds that's inaccessible to most people. Not saying that every other little "fast food" place is more healthy, but the small fast food places probably don't serve so much processed food. Whatever the reason, we were impressed, since most everybody looks like a pro rugby player, or someone you wouldn't want to meet angry. O tagata malolosi. (Strong people.) Two cents finished.

Lunch and ice cream at Scoops, returned rental car, got a ride to the airport and off we went. . . back to Tutuila and real life. After such an excursion, I can last another little while on our small rock in the Pacific.

Tofa Soifua, Samoa.

Samoa Christmas 2010-Vaisala

After Aganoa we traveled west on the south coast road and up the west coast until we got to Vaisala. It all looked very similar to the Big Island of Hawaii. They even nicknamed Savaii "The Big Island" (which probably has nothing to do with Hawaii, and just the fact that it's the biggest island of Samoa.)

Savaii is very remote. There are few stores, one traffic light, and many villages living a traditional way of life. We saw a lot of horses, pigs, cows, and chickens. Thousands of fales, dozens of churches, and few other tourists. It was a quiet, slow-paced feeling on the island. If you ever need a change of pace, this is your spot.

It was a great place to spend Christmas because there's nothing to buy and no place to shop. Especially not on the holidays. Clutter-free Christmas.

We drove over to Le Lagoto, a luxury resort, for lunch and that was just about all we could afford to do there. We couldn't justify spending $400 USD a night for a family bungalow, so we returned to a more affordable, although eclectic family room at old Vaisala Hotel.

All through the trip Ella and Isaac alternated between singing "Feliz Navidad" and "Manuia le Kerisimasi".

Our continental breakfast included papaya, pineapple, lime, toast, butter, pineapple marmalade, and kokosamoa.

After a morning of swim and snorkel, we had to head back to the wharf for our ferry back to Upolu. We should've taken more photos of Savaii, but it's stuff that we see everyday, so we didn't. Sorry. But we did like this. It is a barber shop. Fale Oti Ulu. House of Cutting Hair, but literally House of Killing Heads. Would you like to get your hair done there?

And then back on the ferry for our pleasure cruise back to Upolu. Isaac was funny because, the further west we traveled the more he complained. He always wanted to go back to the island we'd come from.

My honest feelings about the ride.

Samoa Christmas 2010-Aganoa

On Savaii we first explored the South Coast. Ephraim wanted to check the surf at Aganoa, and it was a good thing because it was the only surf at the time.

So we decided to stay the night. And we were the only guests there! So private beach, private meals. Just us and the crabs.

Beach fales aren't our kids' favorite. The aspect of adventure is lost on them. But it was fine. We'd learned our lesson before and faithfully used mosquito nets to protect ourselves from those darned "mossies".