More Waves

Steve and I got some fun waves in Taputimu the day before my birthday. This spot has major potential and a lot of the old timers talk of epic sessions. I have yet to have one there but can kind of see what they are referring too as I watch waves dredge the water off the reef and slab up. On this day the barrels weren't staying open and the whole wave was pretty pinchy with a fat shoulder. Most waves were just a drop and a few would close out the whole cove. I caught one of those closeouts and almost got dragged across the rocks you can see in the foreground of some of the pictures. It turned out to be a pretty fun session because of the swell size. The reefs here can't really handle anything over 6-8 ft (double overhead) and usually anything over head high is too messy to ride. So on this day we got to ride some overhead, somewhat clean waves. They were really hard to get into and I had some fun air drops.




I went for this tiny one (below) and backed out, then got slammed by the next wave (following two). I ended up being right in the impact zone and tried to dive under but got sucked over the falls and hit the reef feet first and was held there for a while.


Here I am with Steve getting a little breather after getting pounded inside.

Steve was making some fun drops but was really wishing for more of a wall or at least something to turn against afterward.

Here's one of those air drops I mentioned (the second picture).

Thanks to Lauren for taking these pictures of us. I think before this day I'd only had about 5 pictures taken of me surfing in my life. For days after I couldn't get over myself and had to look at these over and over. I always was one of the vainer guys I've known.